Andhra Pradesh

 
Population: 66 million
Capital: Hyderabad
Area: 276,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: October to February
Language: Telugu
Literacy Rate: 45%

Andhra Pradesh is located on the eastern coast of India. Maharashtra borders it on the west, Orissa to the north, and Tamil Nadu to the south. The people of Andhra Pradesh speak Telugu. In 1953, Andhra Pradesh became the first state to have its borders designated by language.

Hyderabad is an interesting city. There are some ancient Buddhist sites in Andhra Pradesh, such as Nagarjunakonda and Amaravati, southeast of Hyderabad. In the southeast part of the state is the important temple town of Tirupati, which is one of the most popular temples in India.

During the monsoon the deltas of the Krishna and Godavari rivers may flood disrupting train travel between Calcutta and Chennai. The worst months are October and November.

History
Andhra Pradesh was ruled from the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD by the Andhras dynasty, also known as the Satavahanas. In the 7th century the Chalukyas took control of the area to be followed by the Cholas in the 10th century.

In the 13th century the Kakatiyas from Warangal took control. Muslims forces under the Sultans of Delhi started to come into the area. In the beginning of the 14th century they were able to take over the area. After a short while, the Hindu Vijayanagar Empire replaced them.

In the 16th century the Muslim Qutb Shahi dynasty took control of Hyderabad and ruled from the Golconda Fort. In 1687, one of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb’s generals took control of the area, when the then ruler refused to pay tribute to Delhi. After the death of Aurangzeb, the viceroy who used to rule under him took control of the area in 1723 and took the title, “Nizam.” The Nizams ruled under the protection of the British until 1948.

After Independence in 1947, Nizam Usman Ali did not want to merge his kingdom with the rest of India, at which time 85% were Hindus. After one year the Indian army came in and annexed his territory. The Nizam at one time was said to be the richest man in the world. The state of Andhra Pradesh was formed in 1956 by merging the state of Hyderabad to the west, with the section of the Madras Presidency where they spoke Telegu, on the east coast.

Yadagiri-gutta
This place, 60km north of Hyderabad, was named after a sage named Yadava, who performed intense austerities to see Lord Vishnu in his form as Lord Narasimha. Being pleased with him, Lord Vishnu appeared before him as Jwala Narasimha, Gandabheranda Narasimha, and Yogananda Narasimha. He begged the Lord to remain permanently on the hill in these three forms. Yadagiri is the corrupted form of the original name, Yadava-giri. The temple here is on top of a hill.

Lakshmi Narasimha Temple.
There are three forms of Lord Narasimha in this temple—Jwala Narasimha, Gandabheranda Narasimha, and Yogananda Narasimha—each embedded in stone. The oil lamps here are kept burning 24 hours a day. Many people visit this temple.

It is said that whatever a sincere devotee prays for here will not go unfulfilled; no pilgrimage to this place is made in vain. It is also stated that incurable diseases will be remedied here if one worships the Lord for a week or two, or even better, for forty days, with faith and determination.

The temple is situated upon a 90m (300 ft) hill. At the foot of this hill is a gateway with a gopuram called Vaikuntha-dwara, or “gateway to Vaikuntha,” the spiritual world.

Where to Stay
For overnight stays there are basic dharamshalas at the top of the hill and a few basic, although not cheap, hotels at the bottom of the hill. There are only basic eating places here.

Travel
Buses leave regularly from Hyderabad (2 hr) from platform 48 or 50 from the new APSRIC bus station, Gowliguda, about every half-hour. There is a big picture of Narasimha at the platform. Once you get to Yadagiri-gutta, the last stop, you can walk up, get on a crowded bus, or take an auto-rickshaw to the top of the hill. It’s about a half-hour walk.

Warangal
Pop: 540,000
Phone Code: 08712

Warangal, 150km northeast of Hyderabad, was the capital of the Hindu Kakatiya dynasty. They ruled a good part of present Andhra Pradesh from the 12th to the beginning of the 14th centuries, at which time they were defeated by the Muslim Tughlaqs of Delhi. This place can be visited on a long day trip from Hyderabad.

Practical Information
The State Bank of Hyderabad, opposite the Tourist Information Bureau changes money. Open Mon-Fri 10:30 am to 2 pm

Fort and Chalukyan Temples
There is an interesting fort located here. An interesting temple is the Swayambhu Temple (1162), which was originally dedicated to Lord Siva. Over the years much of the temple has been defaced. There is a 14th century Siva temple nearby. There is also the 11th century Shirab Khan, the Audience Hall.

The Chalukyan-style Thousand Pillared Temple is at the base of Hanamkonda Hills, 5km north of the fort. It has three shrines dedicated to Vishnu, Siva and Surya. It has some excellent sculptures on it and some intricately carved pillars. There is the Bhadrakali Temple on top of the hill.

Admission Rs 100. An auto-rickshaw from Warangal to the fort is around Rs 25-30.

Where to Stay and Eat
There are Retiring Rooms at the railway station for Rs 75/125 and Rs 120/130 with A/C.
Vikas Lodge (254194) has basic rooms with bath for Rs 1250/150.
Vijay Lodge (256-1781), Station Rd, has decent rooms for Rs 150/200 and a room with a TV for Rs 300. Has hot water in the morning and some rooms have western toilets..
Hotel Shanthi Krishna, Station Rd, near the post office, had rooms for Rs 150/200.
Hotel Ashok, (257-8491) Main Rd, Hanamkonda, 5km from the railway station, has rooms for Rs 300/500 and with A/C for Rs 650/800.
Hotel Ratna (256-0645), MG Road, near the railway station, Hanamkona, has rooms with hot water in the morning for Rs 300/350 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. Accepts credit cards.

Travel  
Warangal is a main stop on the railway line. There are trains to Hyderabad, Secunderabad (3 hr, 150km), and Vijayawada (4 hr, 210km). There are regular buses to Hyderabad (3½ hr).

The bus stand and railway stations are opposite each other. You can take bus #28 from the station to the Fort (5km). If you take a rickshaw to the Fort, it is best to get it there and back, plus waiting time.

You can rent a bike on station road to get around for Rs 10 per hour or Rs 45 for the day.

Nagarjunakonda
Nagarjunakonda was one of the main Buddhist centers in South India from the 2nd century BC until the 3rd century AD. It is located around 165km southeast of Hyderabad on the Krishna River, near Vijayapuri. The site was rediscovered in 1926 after being covered for around 1600 years, and was then excavated. During which time the ruins of some stupas, chaityas and viharas were found.

The Ikshwaku dynasty constructed an important city here around the 2nd century BC. The Pallavas took control of the area around the middle of the 4th century and at that time it lost its importance.

The original site of the city was covered after the area was flooded, when the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam was built in 1960. Many of the buildings that were found were taken to and then reconstructed on Nagarjuna Hill, which is now an island in the middle of the lake. Nine structures were rebuilt and there are replicas of what was found constructed on the island. Also found were some outstanding memorial pillars and excellent ancient sculptures. On the hill was a 14th century fort and in some places the walls are still over 6m (20 ft) high. There are two ancient temples, dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, near where the museum is located.

The Maha-chaitya Stupa (3rd century AD), was originally built over some of the Buddha’s relics (said to be his tooth). Nearby is a large statue of a standing Buddha.

Also found were some jewelry, coins, statues and some impressive white marble sculptures of the Buddha, and these items are now in a museum (Admission Rs 100; Sat-Thur 9:30 am to 4 pm) on the island, which is open daily except Fri. In the museum is a 3m (10 ft) high standing Buddha. Most of the reconstructed structures are near the museum.

Boats depart from the village of Vijayapuri, which is on the shore of the lake, 10km from the island, at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm (Rs 50). The boats return from the island after just a half-hour, which is enough time to see everything quickly. If you want to spend more time, you could take the morning boat and return on the afternoon boat.

There is a detailed Archaeological Survey of India book about this place. You can hire a guide at the tourist office (2133), Project House, Hill Colony. Weekends and holidays can be really crowded here.

Nearby, the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam (125m high) is built across the Krishna River.

Where to Stay
The APTDC Vijay Vihar Complex (08680 276633 277361), near the boat jetty at Vijayapuri, has good-size rooms with A/C for Rs 700/900 and cottages for Rs 550. It can be booked at any APTDC office in advance. The are good views from the rooms. Has a restaurant serving both veg and non-veg.
Punnami Hotel (08641 242742), across from the boat jetty, has good-size, clean rooms with hot water for Rs 400/700. The front rooms have good views.
Project House (08680 276540), in Hill Colony 4km away, has rooms for Rs 250/350.
Local people rent out rooms in their house for Rs 150-200 per day.

Travel
The simplest way to come here is on a tour organized by APTTDC from Hyderabad (040 2345 3036. The tour departs from the Yatri Niwas Hotel in Hyderabad at 6.30 am and returns at 9.30 pm. It costs Rs 3000, which includes lunch. The tour goes to the Nagarjunakonda Museum, Pylon (a 3rd century granite Buddhist monolith), Ethipothala Waterfalls and Nagarjuna Sagar.

You can get a bus to here from Hyderabad (5 hr), Guntur and Vijayawada (6 hr, a direct bus at 11 am). The nearest railway station is in Macherla (22km), which connect to Guntur. There are regular buses from there to Nagarjuna Sagar.

Nandyal
The Mahanandi Temple is 16km from Nandyal and about 280km south of Hyderabad. It is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Siva. The linga is unique—a rough, uncut rock with two cavities. The priests allow you to touch the linga. There is a huge Nandi in front of the main shrine. Many people include this temple in a visit to Srisailam.

This temple is unique for South India because the vimana (tower) over the linga is built in the North Indian style. The temple’s main gate faces west. There is a tank here which is always 1.5m (5 ft) deep. The mystery is that no one knows how the water enters the tank—only that it is always the same level and crystal clear.

There is a railway station in Nandyal.

Tadpatri (Tadapatri)
Pop: 71,000 Area Code: 08558

There are two interesting temples in Tadpatri built by the Vijayanagar kings.

The Venkataramana Temple (mid-16th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It has an impressive gopuram and beautiful sculptures of the pastimes of Krishna and Rama. This temple is about 1km northeast of the bus station.

One km north of this temple is the Ramalingeswara Temple, situated on the south bank of the Pennar River. It has two impressive gopurams, outstanding sculptures, and pilastered walls encrusted with friezes of jewels, petals, and miniature scrollwork. The temple’s main shrine is dedicated to Lord Siva. There is a Siva-linga here whose stand is filled with water. There are also two other shrines—one dedicated to Parvati and the other to Rama, Laksman, and Sita.

Tadpatri is about halfway between Hyderabad and Bangalore. It is about 120km southwest of Ahovalam.

Srikurman (Kurma-ksetra)
There is a temple in Srikurman dedicated to Kurmadeva. Srikurman is located 100km northeast of Visakhapatnam and 200km southwest of Puri, on the shore of the Bay of Bengal, 15km east of the town of Srikakulam. Srikakulam is a fairly large town and the facilities there are decent. Srikurman is a small town with virtually no facilities, so it is best to stay in Srikakulam and travel to the Sri Kurma Temple during the day. This is an area where few foreigners visit.

Kurma Temple
This architecturally beautiful temple is said to be the only temple of the tortoise incarnation on earth. The present temple is at least 700 years old; the original temple is said to have been built in 200 AD.

Sri Kurma, a Deity of Lord Vishnu in the form of a kurma, tortoise, is one of Vishnu’s ten incarnations, collectively known as the Dasavatara. The Deity consists of two stones, about two feet long, emerging from the ground, which represent Sri Kurma’s head and body. The temple is located on the shore of Swatha Puskarini Lake. There is a large festival in February, at which time thousands of people come to bathe in the Swatha Puskarini Lake.

To the left of the main temple is a small temple dedicated to the four-armed form of Bilvamangala. It is said that Bilvamangala’s body is buried below this temple. On a hill in Kurma-ksetra is a small shrine that houses the footprints of Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, who visited Kurma-ksetra in 1512

Nearby
At Arasavalli, 1½ km from Srikakulam, there is a famous Surya Temple, dedicated to the xe "sun-god" sun-god. It is said that this temple was originally established by Lord Indra, king of heaven The deity is carved from black granite.

Aruna, the sun-god’s charioteer, is the older brother of Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s carrier. Yelamanchili Pullaji Panthulu reconstructed the present temple in 1778.

This place is between Srikakulam and the Kurma Temple, and it is convenient to stop and visit this temple on the way to the Kurma Temple.

Where to Stay and Eat
Right next to the railway station, 15km from Srikakulam and 30km from Srikurman, is the Raja Lodge, with really basic rooms for Rs 100/125.
Srikakulam, about 15km west of Srikurman, has some decent places.
Lodge Priyadarshini (22770), Krishna Park Junction, Palakonda Rd, has good rooms for Rs 175/200, and Rs 300 with A/C. This is one of the best values in town.
Lodge Rajkamal (22164), Palakonda Rd, has rooms for Rs 100/140, deluxe rooms for Rs 175, and Rs 300 with A/C.
The best place in town is the Hotel Nagavali (22956), Ring Rd. Rooms are Rs 250 and Rs 500 for with A/C. It has a decent veg restaurant.

Travel
Train  The closest railway station to Srikurman is called Srikakulam Railway Station and is on the main Chennai-Calcutta line. It is located about 15km west of the city. It is about 30km from the railway station to the Sri Kurma Temple.

Road There are regular buses from Vijayawada (3 hr) to Srikakulam.

You can hire a motor rickshaw to bring you from the bus stand in Srikakulam to the Kurma Temple and back, stopping xe "Simhachalam" on the way at the Sun temple at Arasavalli, for Rs 150. There are buses to the Kurma Temple from the bus station in Srikakulam. Since Srikurman is a small town, taking an auto rickshaw is more convenient than taking a bus, because you may have to wait a long time to get back to Srikakulam.

To go between the railway and bus stations there are regular, very crowded buses, and an auto rickshaws is around Rs 100 (20 min).

Nagalapuram
In the Veda Narayana Temple here, the presiding Deity is Lord Matsya. This temple is reputed to be the only Matsya temple in India. The Deity has the head and torso of Lord Vishnu and golden humanlike feet, but the priest can move the golden feet aside to expose the Lord’s fish tail.

Bhadrachalam
Bhadrachalam is located on the bank of the Godavari River, 180km due west of Visakhapatnam. The important Sri Rama Temple is located here. The main Deity is the four-armed form of Lord Rama called Chaturbhuja Rama. This is where Rama and Sita are said to have lived before Sita was kidnapped by Ravana. It is also said that the temple is located near the point where Rama crossed the Godavari on his journey to Lanka to find Sita. At that time, a sage named Bhadra lived here, and Lord Rama came just to give him darshan. This temple is named Bhadrachalam after this sage.

Travel
You can first go to Burgampad and from there to Bhadrachalam. You can also take a train to Rajahmundry, which is on the Chennai-Calcutta line. From there you take a boat about 70km up the Godavari River.

Mangalagiri
Mangalagiri is situated about 12km south of Vijayawada. There is a major Lord Narasimha temple here. The Deity is called Pana Narasimha (Panakala Narasimha), because he is believed to drink half the quantity of pana, or cold drink, offered by worshipers. It is said that when the Lord is offered sugar syrup, he does not take more than half. The temple is built around a self-manifest mouth of Lord Narasimha. Over the mouth, completing the face of the Lord, is a brass mask with an angry expression. A chakra and club are also self-manifested in the stone.

The temple is on a hill and is approached by ascending 600 steps. This temple has the highest gopuram in the state of Andhra Pradesh. Inside this temple there is a conch shell presented by the late king of Tanjor, and this shell, according to the locals, was used by Lord Krishna. 

 The temple priest takes a pot of sweet jaggery water and pours half of the drink with a conchshell into the Lord’s mouth. The jaggery water is made of liquefied gur-water (sugar), camphor, black pepper, and cardamom. Half of whatever quantity of jaggery water that is prepared is offered to the Lord and the rest is returned to the offerer as mahaprasad. While the water is being poured into the mouth of the Lord, you hear a gurgling sound as someone might make while drinking. Even though there is so much sugar water offered here, there is not a single ant on the hill.

It is said that Lord Narasimha rested here after killing Hiranyakasipu, and Lakshmi Devi then gave him a drink to quench his thirst. At the bottom of the hill there is an ancient Lakshmi Narasimha temple. Mangalagiri is mentioned as a holy place in the Skanda and Brahma-vaivarta Puranas.

Sri Chaitanya came here in 1512. There is an imprint of his feet and a verse dedicated to him in the temple. During the month of March, a large festival takes place in this temple.

Travel
The best way to get here is to first go to Vijayawada or Guntur, and from either of these places there are frequent buses.

Amaravati
Amaravati is the site of an ancient Buddhist center, which was the old capital of the Satvahanas. It is a small village 30km west of Vijayawada on the bank of the Krishna River. There are the remains of the 2,000 year old Great Buddhist Stupa that is believed to have been as large of the one in Sanchi. It had carved pillars, which depicted the pastimes of Lord Buddha.

There is a small interesting archaeological museum (daily except Fri 10 am to 5 pm), which displays some ancient Buddhist carvings and other items. Admission is Rs 100 for foreigners and Rs 5 for Indians.

Where to Stay
The APTDC Punnami Guesthouse (0864-255-5332) has basic rooms for Rs 325 and dorm beds for Rs 75.

Getting Here
To get here from Vijayawada you take a bus to Guntur (30 min, every half-hour) and from there take a bus to Amaravati (1½ hr). The trip from Vijayawada via Guntur to Amaravati is 65km.

The APTDC runs a bus tours (Rs 75) and boat tour (Rs 85) to here from Vijayawada. You can take a APTDC boat tour to here which departs from the Krishnaveni Hotel in Visakhapatnam near the main bridge over the Krishna River for Rs 60. It departs when the river is high enough, which it often is not.

Lepakshi
The famous Veerabhadra Temple is located here. It possesses some of the best murals from the period of the Vijayanagar kings. Lord Rama, Lord Papanaseswara (Siva), Veerabhadra, and Durga are all worshiped here. There is also a deity of Gopala Swami (Krishna). In the Skanda Purana, Lepakshi is said to be one of the 108 important pilgrimage sites dedicated to Lord Siva. Narrative reliefs on the south wall depict the pastimes of Lord Siva, including Arjuna’s penance.

It is said that Jatayu fell here after fighting with Ravana. This is a small village located 17km east of Hindupur. Hindupur is on the Hyderabad-Bangalore train line, about 100km due north of Bangalore in Andhra Pradesh.

In the temple, the shrine of Lord Vishnu, faces Lord Siva with Veerabhadra in the center. The pillars in the Natya-mandapa are intricately carved. The largest xe "Nandi" Nandi in India is located 200m east of the temple. It is carved out of a monolithic rock and is 5m (17 ft) high and 8m (27 ft) in length. Apart from being famous for this huge Nandi, the temple is well known for its intricate sculptures and excellent murals that include Lord Krishna’s and Lord Rama’s pastimes. These murals have elegant line-work and vibrant natural colors, and the costumes and facial expressions have outstanding detail.

The treasurer of the king of Vijayanagar used taxes collected on the king’s behalf to build the temple, while the king was away in Vijayanagar. When the king returned and found his treasury empty, he ordered the treasurer to be blinded. The treasurer blinded himself and dashed his eyes against the wall of the temple. There is a wall near the Kalyana-mandapa that has two dark stains said to be from his eyes. That is why the village is called “Lepa-akshi” (Lepakshi), “the village of the blinded eye.”

Opposite the temple is a Rest House (only two rooms). You can also stay in Hindupur, where there are several hotels near the State bus stand.

Nellore
Nellore is situated 3½ hours north of Chennai by train.

Ranganatha Temple
This temple was built about 1070. It is on the bank of the River Pennar. The temple has a 110-year-old, 31m (95 ft) high gopuram covered with hundreds of forms of Lord Vishnu. The main Deity, Garbhodakashayi Vishnu reclining on his couch of Ananta Sesa, is 3m (10 ft) long.

Where to Stay
Hotel Simhapuri (27041), Railway Station Road, has rooms with hot water for Rs 300/400 and Rs 600 with A/C.
Hotel Shivam International (27181; fax 24471), 18/1 Achari St, has rooms with hot water for Rs 250/400 and Rs 600 with A/C.

Puttaparthi
Area Code: 08555

Located in the southwest corner of Andhra Pradesh on the border of Karnataka, Puttaparthi is where the main ashram of Shri Sathya Sai Baba is located. Sai Baba (born Satyanarayana Raju) was born here on November 23, 1926. At the age of 14 he stated that he was an incarnation of Sai Baba, a famous saint from Shirdi in Maharashtra, who had died eight years before Satya Sai Baba was born.

The ashram was established in 1950 and now fifty years later, Sai Baba has millions of followers, including a large following of western devotees. He produces vibhuti, sacred ash, which is said to have curative powers.

The ashram is a very large, peaceful place and can facilitate many thousands of people. Sai Baba stays here most of the time (July to March). He also goes to Whitefields Ashram, near Bangalore and sometimes to Kodaikanal in Tamil Nadu during the summer season. A major event here is the birthday of Sai Baba, when he addresses the assembled devotees. Hundreds of thousands of people come for the event.

There is a museum (daily 10 am to noon), with an exhibit on the major religions of the world. There are verses from different sacred books, with comments by Sai Baba.

Darshan
The main reason that devotees come here is to get darshan of Satya Sai Baba. They are twice daily 6.45 to 7 am and 3.45 to 4 pm. People start coming an hour before the darshans. A lottery system chooses who sits in the front.

Where to Stay
There are large ashrams here where most people stay, four in a room for foreigners. The ashrams are divided by sex, except for families. You can not book a room in advance, but you can call the secretary’s office (287583) to see if rooms are available.
Sai Ram Lodge (87412) has rooms for Rs 200.
Hotel Sai Sree Nivas, Main Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 250/400.
Sai Towers (87270) has comfortable rooms for Rs 900.
Sri Sathya Sai Village (044 459-951; fax 489-6069), 2km from the ashram going toward the airport, has A/C rooms for Rs 800 and Rs 1200 including meals.

Where to Eat:
Big Pizza Net Café, 6-176,Beside Bus station, Hours: 5:00 am to 9 pm. Vegetarian Continental and Chinese , and International. Mostly vegan. Has a large selection of interesting vegetarian Pizza’s. Soups, salads, whole-wheat bread, a good selection of, fresh fruit salad with youghurts, sandwiches, Chinese dishes, Italian pastas.

Local Travel
You should not pay more Rs 20 to go anywhere in town by autorickshaw. Sai Maaruthi Travels (28811; 1Email: saimarutittravel@yahoo.com) Sai Lakshmi Shopping complex, Main Rd, accross from the ashram, rents out cars.

Travel
It is best to come here from Bangalore, which is 4 hours south by car. Indian Airlines has flights to here from Mumbai ($165) and Chennai.

A train to here from Bangalore take four hours: A taxi to here from Bangalore cost Rs 1100 to Rs 1400. There are buses to Bangalore (4 hr, 5 daily), Hyderabad (10 hr, 3 daily) and Chennai (11 hr, 1 daily). There are regular buses to Dharmavaram (42km), which is where the nearest railway station is located.

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