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This is where Prince Gautama attained enlightenment under the sacred Asvatta tree (Bodhi tree) and became known as the xe "Buddha" Buddha. This is one of the four most sacred pilgrimage places for Buddhists. The other important places are his place of birth at Lumbini, Nepal; the site of his first lecture at Sarnath, near Varanasi; and the place where he passed away at Kushinagar, near Gorakhpur.

Buddhists from all over the world have built temples in xe "Bodhgaya" Bodhgaya. Bodhgaya is a small, laid-back town, and it is pleasant place to stay for a while. It is an active center for Buddhist learning, and many Westerners come here to study. If you are coming to see the sites, you can easily see everything in a day.

The Dalai Lama often spends time here in December and January. Tibetan pilgrims come for the winter from Dharamsala. Bodhgaya is located about 13km from Gaya, 450km west of Kolkata (Calcutta), and 90km south of Patna.

Information
The Tourist Office (220-0672), at the corner of Bodhgaya Rd & Temple Road at the Tourist Complex Compound (Mon-Sat 10:30 am to 5 pm). It hires out guides. I got a good guide for Rs 50 at the entrance of the Mahabodhi Temple.

You can change money at the State Bank of India, accroos from the Mahabodhi Temple. Niranjana Tours & Travel changes cash and travelers cheques (but at a worse rate than the bank)

Middle Way Travels (220-0668; Email: middleway2001@yahoo.com), next to the Shiva Hotel changes travlers cheques and currency. They also can organize Buddhist tours of Bihar and can get train tickets in Gaya.

The are several places to access the Internet and they charge around Rs 60 per hour.

Mahabodhi Temple
The Mahabodhi Temple is located at the place of Lord Buddha’s enlightenment. The temple has a 50m (170 ft) tower. The present temple was restored around 1880. There have been several other temples on this site. Muslims destroyed a previous temple in the 11th century. Parts of the intricately carved railings to the south and west of the temple are ancient. Some of the railings are original and parts are reproductions.

The inner sanctuary contains a huge Buddha. There is also a Siva-linga that was installed about 860. This temple is sacred to Hindus because Lord Buddha is considered by them to be the ninth incarnation of Lord Vishnu.

The Bodhi Tree here, behind the temple, is said to be a descendent of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. Emperor Ashoka’s daughter (Sanghamitta) carried a sapling of the original Bodhi (pipal) tree under which the Buddha sat to Sri Lanka. That tree is at Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. A cutting from that tree was planted in Bodhgaya when the original tree died. Under the tree is a red sandstone slab said to be the Vajrasana, diamond throne, upon which Buddha sat and attained nirvana. The tree is located behind the temple and is about 24m (80 ft) high and 125 years old.

After attaining enlightenment, Buddha spent seven weeks in the area of the Bodhi tree. The first week he spent sitting under the tree. The second week he spent looking at the tree from the Animeshlochana Stupa, a spot now marked by a small white temple to your right as you enter the gate of the Mahabodhi temple. Animeshlochana means “the place of unwinking gazing.”

The Jewel Walk (Chankramana Chaitya) is a raised platform where Buddha walked up and down in meditation during the third week. The platform was originally built in the 1st century BC and is 1m high and 18m (60 ft) long. Carved stone lotuses mark the spots where he put his feet.

The Ratanagraha Chaitya is where he spent his fourth week in contemplation. It is said that red, blue, yellow, orange, and white rays emanated from his body when he meditated on the Patthana, or causal law.

It is said that Buddha spent the fifth week under the Ajapala Nigrodha tree.

By the northern wall of the compound is the Lotus Pond, called Mucalinda Lake (abode of the snake king). Buddha is said to have spent the sixth week in meditation here. There is a life-sized Buddha covered by a cobra. A cobra is said to have saved Buddha from drowning while he was in deep meditation. This pond is full of beautiful lotus flowers. In front of the pond are the remains of an Ashoka pillar, which is now about 6m (20 ft) high.

The seventh week was spent at Rajayatana, a tree under which Lord Buddha sat. The exact location of this tree is not known, but a spot has been chosen to mark the place.

After the seventh week, Lord Buddha went toSarnath to teach five Brahmins there.

There are many people at this temple that have made vows to offer 400,000 obeisances at this temple. They do it in groups of 100,000 and then do extras to make sure they did not miscount.

You enter the temple complex from the east, off the main street to your left as you look at the temple from the road. The temple is open 5am to noon and 2 to 6.30 pm. Admission is free. Camera/video Rs 25/300.

History of the Buddha
The Buddha appeared around 560 BC (the exact year is disputed) in Lumbini (now in Nepal) as a prince of the Sakya dynasty. He was given the name Siddhartha. An astrologer predicted that he would gain great power either as a ruler of men or as a religious leader.

It was later predicted that if he saw the suffering of men he would take to religion and give up his father’s kingdom. His father made every effort to ensure that his son was spared from even seeing misery. He isolated him from the outside world and gave him anything he wanted. After he grew up, Siddhartha married and fathered a son. One day, he managed to leave the palace, at which time he was exposed to sickness, old age, and death. He met a wandering sage, and then decided to renounce worldly life and take up the path of austerity to search for the Absolute Truth.

He subjected himself to great austerities for six years. It is said that he fasted on only one grain of rice a day until when he held his stomach, he could feel his backbone. He would also sit on thorn bushes. One day, barely alive, he staggered to the river near Bodhgaya and fell in. At that time, he came close to death. He then realized that all his austerities were counterproductive to his discovering the truth.

He decided to sit under the Bodhi tree in Bodhgaya and to meditate. After meditating for forty-nine days, he was tempted by Mara, the Lord of Death, with all material desires, but he rejected them all. Then he realized that human life was an endless cycle of birth, death, old age, and disease, to which people were bound by their material attachments. He realized that he could not attain self-realization by performing austerities because that in itself was a “desire”. Because he no longer desired this stage of life, he attained nirvana (the ultimate goal of freedom from the cycle of birth and death) and attained the state of pure bliss.

Monasteries
Many of the countries with large Buddhist populations have built temples in Bodhgaya. The temples usually have the architectural design of the sponsoring country.

At the Tibetan Mahayana Monastery (1938) there is a large Dharma Chakra (prayer wheel) or wheel of law. It is believed that an aspirant will be freed of sin if he or she spins the wheel three times in succession from left to right. The wheel is a 10m (33 ft) high metal drum painted gold and red. The Karmapa Temple and Sakya Monastery are also Tibetan.

The Thai Temple is a colorful temple designed in the Thai Buddhist style.

The Indosan Nipponji Japanese Temple has a beautiful Buddha in the temple.

There are also Burmese (1936), Bhutanese, Chinese, Sri Lankan, Vietnamese, and Nepalese monasteries here.

Other Places
The small Bodhgaya Site Archaeological Museum has a fine collection of exhibits collected from the local area. There are gold, bronze, and stone sculptures of Buddha. Admssion Rs 3. Open daily except Fri 10 am to 5 pm.

There is a 20m high Great Buddha Statue on a 5m high base, which was unveiled by the Dalai Lama in 1989. It is across the street from the Sakya Tibetan Monastery.

Buddha bathed in the nearby Niranjana (now called Lilanjan) River after attaining enlightenment. The Niranjana River is about 250m east of the temple. Prince Siddhartha crossed this river to reach the Bodhi tree. It is said that the Buddha sent his begging bowl upstream in this river. He made a solemn declaration that if he was to become the Buddha, the bowl would float upstream and join those of the previous Buddhas. The bowl floated upstream as he desired.

The Mohanta’s Monastery, located right next to the Mahabodhi Temple, is a Shaivite monastery. It is said that Adi Sankaracharya spent days here in a heated debate with Buddhist philosophers. There are sculptures in this temple.

In Dungeswari (Mahakala), 12km from Bodhgaya, there is a cave where Buddha meditated for some time and came to the conclusion that knowledge could not be gained through mortification of the flesh. It is best to come here by car, as from where the bus lets you off, it is a long walk (best only done in the winter).

Meditation Courses
There is a high demand to take the Vipasana meditation courses (increasing every year), so it is best to reserve such courses in advance. Courses are sometimes advertised. You can check the notice board at the OM Café to see if anything is available.

Courses in the Goenka school of Vipasana meditation are offered by the International Meditation Centre (220-0707) at their center in Bodhgaya and their new center, the Dhammabodhi It is ocated behind the Chinese Temple. Offers course for both beginners and advanced students.

Dhamma Bodhi International Meditation Centrea Vipasana Meditation Centre (220-0437; phone & fax 220-0707), located about 4 km from Bodhgaya near Magadha University on Dobi Road.
Two ten-day courses in the Hinayana school of Vipasana take place in January at the Thai Monastery. The cost is $100. This course should be reserved in advance by writing

Gaia House (01803 813188), Woodland Rd, Denbury, West Ogwell Devon in the UK, or
Contact International Academy in Maharashtra (02335 228-4076)
Dhamma Dipa Centre in England, Harewood End, Hereford HR2 8JS (0189 730234

Thomas Jost, Bodhgaya Post Office, Gaya District, Bihar 824 231. You can also contact Thomas Jost at the Thai Monastery.

The Root Institute for Wisdom Culture (240-0714; fax 240-0548: Web Site: http://www.rootinstitute.com), 1½ km west of the Mahabodhi Temple, holds ten-day meditation courses and retreats between November and March. It was founded by two Tibetan lamas. It cost around Rs 350 per day for courses, accommodation and three meals. Has a pleasant gardens a nice temple, library and accommodation on their own grounds. Mahayana tradition. It is possible to stay up to three months. You should book well in advance.

Meditation courses are also held at the Tibetan and Burmese monasteries.

Buddha Jayanti Festival
The Buddha Jayanti festival in May celebrates the appearance day of Buddha, the day he received enlightenment, and the day he passed away. It is the biggest festival day of the year.

Where to Stay—Monasteries
Pilgrims can stay at the monasteries. Most of the rooms are as basic as they come. At the Bhutanese Monastery,(220-0710) visitors can get a room with a common bath for Rs 150 and rooms with pritvate bath with hot water are Rs 250. The Tibetan Monastery (220-0722) is has more basic rooms . You may also be able to stay at the Thai or Sakya Tibetan Monasteries.(rooms with bath for Rs 200).
The Burmese Monastery (220-0721) is spartan but popular. Visitors can stay for Rs 100 to Rs 300 per day with bath, but are expected to follow the rules of the monastery, such as no smoking.
Daijokyo Buddhist House (220-0747), at the Japanese Monastery, has well-maintained rooms for Rs 600. It is usually booked, so you should call in advance.

Where to Stay—Lower

Hotel Amar has rooms for a good value, some with bath, for Rs 250. This is a good place to stay for the budget traveler if you prefer not to stay in a monastery.
Ram’s Guest House (220-0644), is a family-run place with rooms with common bath for Rs 200, with private bath for Rs 300 and a dorm bed for Rs 100.
Hotel Buddha Vihar (220-0445; fax: 220-0127; Email: touristbungalowbodhgaya@yahoo.com) has only dormitory beds for Rs 125/150. Next door, the Hotel Siddharth Vihar (220-0445; fax: 220-0127; Email: touristbungalowbodhgaya@yahoo.com) has rooms with bath for Rs 350 to Rs 450. Both places are government tourist bungalows.
Sri Lanka Guest House (220-0742) is run by the Mahabodhi Society and is a nice place, but is often full. Rooms are Rs 500. Serves vegetarian food.
Root Institute for Wisdom Culture has good, clean rooms.

Where to Stay—Medium and High
Hotel Shanti Buddha (220-0534), near the Thai Temple, has rooms for Rs 950/1000 and Rs 1100/1250 with A/C. The rooms are good, but the place is overpriced.
Hotel Shashi International (220-0459; fax 400-483), next door, is a new place with rooms for Rs 1400/1700.
Hotel Sujata (220-0761; fax 220-0515; Email: hotel_sujata@yahoo.com), has good modern rooms for Rs 1300/1600. Has Japanese-style bathrooms and a prayer hall. 24-hour room service.
Mahayana (220-0744), across from the State Bank of India, has comfortable rooms with common bath for Rs 800 and Rs 1000 with bath. It is a good value. Recommended.
Hotel Natranjana (220-0475' fax: 2200873; Email: niranjanahtl@yahoo.com, Bodhgaya Rd) has rooms for Rs 1200/1800 and with A/C 1800/2600. Rooms have TVs..
Hotel Embassy (220-0711) has rooms for Rs 1000/1200.
ITDC Hotel Bodhgaya Ashok (220-0790; 220-0788) has comfortable rooms for Rs 1500/2000 to Rs 2100/2000 for a room with A/C. Discount during the off-season.

Where to Eat
Shiva Hotel, near the tourist office, serves Indian and Western food.
Om Café is a popular, good, inexpensive place. The cakes are good. F
ujia Green serves Tibetan and Chinese food.
Mahabodhi Canteen serves good Chinese and Indian food.
Pole Pole, across form the Burmese Vihar, is a good, pleasant place.
The Ashoka has a good upmarket restaurant.

Travel
To get to Bodhgaya, visitors normally arrive first in nearby Gaya, about 13km from Bodhgaya. Bodhgaya is 243km east of Varanasi.

Air There is a new International Airport set to open with flights to Bangkok, Colombo, Delhi and Kolkata. Airport number is 242-8081

Train The closest train station is located in Gaya. Gaya is on the main train line from Delhi to Kolkata (Calcutta).

Bus & Rickshaw Between Gaya & Bodhgaya There are regular buses that go the 13km between Gaya and Bodhgaya, Yyu can take a motor rickshaw for 100. A crowded, shared rickshaw is Rs 10 a seat. You can catch aminibus (Rs 10) from Kacheri in the center city area of Gaya. Several government buses a day depart from the railway station in Gaya to here.

Buses and shared rickshaws in Bodhgaya depart from in front of the Burmese Vihar.

It is said to be dangerous to travel at night from Gaya to Bodhgaya, so best to avoid it.

There is a bus to Varanasi in the early morning.

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