Kerala

 

Population: 33 million
Area: 39,000 sq km
Main Language: Malayalam
Capital: Thiruvananthapuram
Literacy Rate: 91% 
Best time to visit: October to March

Kerala is a beautiful state with vast areas of rice fields, mango, cashew and coconut palm trees. It is what a tropical paradise should look like. It is on the west coast of India, extending from south of Mangalore in Karnataka to the southern tip of India. The main tourist attractions are the sandy beaches at Kovalam and Varkala, and the backwater boat rides.

Also popular is the city of Kochi, which has an interesting history, along with a fascinating palace, Kathakali dance, St Francis Church (the oldest church in India) and an old Jewish synagogue. Kerala also has interesting temples, but few allow non-Hindus to enter.

Kerala is slightly smaller than Switzerland and about twice the size of Massachusetts. It was the first place in the free world to elect a communist government (1957), which has been in and out of power ever since.

It is said that Kerala was created by Lord Parasuram, one of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. He threw his battle ax into the sea and the sea receded up to the point where the ax fell, creating the landmass of Kerala. Bali Maharaja is said to have ruled here before Vamana banished him to the lower worlds. The Onam festival relives his reign and remembers when there was prosperity for everyone.

Kerala is one of the most densely populated states in India. Most people are Hindu (60%), 20% are Christian, and 20% Muslim. In 52 AD, St. Thomas the Apostle came to India to Cranganore (now Kodungallur). There is a church at this place said to date from the 4th century AD with carving in a Hindu-style. Syrian Christians have been in Kerala since 190 AD. Kottayam is home to several 16th century Syrian Christian churches. The Christian area of Kerala is mainly located near Kochi and Kottayam. Kerala’s literacy rate (91%) is the highest in India.

The Guruvayur Temple near Thrissur, dedicated to Lord Krishna, is one of the most popular and important temples in India. Also important is the Sri Padmanabhaswami Temple in Thiruvananthapuram. The Janardan Temple in Varkala and the Adi Keshava Temple in Tiruvatar are also significant.

The problem with most of the temples in Kerala is that they will not admit non-Hindus, although they sometimes admit converted Hindus. Some temples require that you wear a dhoti or sari to enter the inner sanctum and view the Deity.

During the Great Elephant March from January 17 to 20, around one hundred decorated elephants march from Thrissur in North Kerala to Thiruvananthapuram in South Kerala via Kochi and Alappuzha. The march ends at Thiruvallan, near Kovalam Beach. During the march, different festivities take place in the towns en route, such as snake boat races and music and dance performances.

Name Changes
Some of the towns in Kerala have recently been renamed.
Old Name
New Name
Trivandrum- Thiruvananthapuram
Cochin - Kochi
Trichur - Thrissur
Alleppey - Alappuzha
Calicut - Kozhikode
Quilon - Kollam
Tellicherry - Thalasseri
Sultan’s Battery - Suthanbatheri
Palghat - Palakkad
Cannanore - Kannur
Changanacherry - Changanassery

History
As early as the 3rd century BC, the Phoenicians, Romans, Chinese, Egyptians, and Babylonians were trading in Kerala. The Apostle St Thomas is believed to have come to Kerala in 52 AD. Jews also came to Kerala to avoid persecution in Palestine.

From the 8th century Arabs were the main traders with Kerala. For centuries the Arabs controlled the shipment of spices to Europe. In 1498 the Portuguese landed in Kerala near Calicut and gained exclusive trading rights. At the beginning of the 17th century the British and Dutch defeated the Portuguese and gained control of the trading. The British took complete control during the 18th century.

The present state of Kerala was created in 1956 when Travancore, Cochin, and Malabar merged and became one state. Travancore and Cochin were princely states ruled by maharajas, and Malabar was formerly a part of Madras State.

Bekal
Phone Code 0499
Bekal is on the coast in the far northwest corner of the state, 50km south of Karnataka. It has a long, palm-lined beach and a large fort above it, built between 1645 and 1660. There are good views from the fort, but there is not much left of it except the outer walls. Few tourists visit because accommodations are limited and the locals use the beach as a toilet.

The only place to stay is the Tourist Bungalow (0499 502) in the fort, which has only two basic rooms for Rs 80/100 per person or Rs 125 for three people. It can be booked in Kasaragode at the Kasaragode District Collector (0499 430-833, 430400).

The Eeyam Lodge (0499 736-343), in the village of Palakunnu, 3km north of the fort, has rooms for Rs 125 to Rs 175.

Fortland Tourist Home (0499 736-600), in the village of Udma, 5km north of the fort, has modern, comfortable rooms for Rs 175/250 to Rs 600 with A/C. It has a restaurant.

Fast trains do not stop in Bekal. There are regular buses to Kasaragode from Bekal.

Kasaragode
Area Code: 0499

Kasaragode is the closest main town to Bekal, 20km south. Mangalore is 47km north. There are several hotels in this town on MG Rd, near the junction with NH 17.

Ceeyal Tourist Home (521-177) has rooms for Rs 150.

Enay Tourist Home (430-177) has rooms for Rs 150/200 and some A/C rooms.

Aliya Lodge (521-324), behind the post office, has rooms for about Rs 100/125.

City Tower Hotel (430-562), near the bus stand on MG Rd, has rooms for Rs 300/400 and A/C rooms for Rs 700.

An express train to Mangalore takes 1½ hours. There are buses to Mangalore (Rs 15).

Cheruthuruthy
Located 30km north of Thrissur in Cheruthuruthy is Kalamandalam, a training school for Kathakali and other Keralan art forms, such as Mohiniattam and Kutiyattam. Foreigners can study Kathakali here. To apply call (04926 2418), or write to Kerala Kalamandalam, Cheruthuruthy, Thrissur District, Kerala 675531.

Visitors are welcome to observe dance practices between 4:30 and 6:30 am, at noon, and from 3:30 to 5:30 pm. Closed on weekends and public holidays, and during April and May.

Tiruvilamala
There are two temples next to one another in Tiruvilamala. One is dedicated to Lord Rama (facing west) and the other to Laksman (facing east). Each has a Deity of Vishnu with four arms. The Deity of Lord Rama is said to be swayambhu, or self-manifested. Tiruvilamala is 29km from Thrissur.

About 3km from the temples is a cave called Punarjanani, said to have been built by Visvakarma on Parasuram’s request. Passing through this cave is said to relieve one from taking one of his destined births. This should be done on the day of the Guruvayur Ekadasi festival (Nov-Dec), because on other days the cave is said to be haunted by ghosts.

Triprayar
There is an important Lord Rama temple here. He holds a conch, chakra (disc), bow, and garland in his hands. It is an architecturally attractive temple with ancient woodcarvings.

On the Ekadasi day in Nov-Dec, there is a major festival wherein Lord Rama is taken on procession with as many as twenty-one elephants. This temple is located about 10km south of Thrissur.

Irinjalakuda
Located in Irinjalakuda, 20km south of Thrissur, is the Kutalmanikyam Temple, which is one of the only temples dedicated to Rama’s brother Bharata. The Deity is a four-armed form of Lord Vishnu. He holds a disc, conch, club, and japa-mala (beads) in his hands. The flower offerings at this temple include lotuses, tulasi, and chetti—no other flowers.

This temple has a large eastern gateway (gopuram). It is possible to see parts of the temple (men must wear a dhoti), but non-Hindus are not permitted in the inner part of the temple.

It is said that a local chieftain named Vakkey Kaimal once had a dream that four Deities had washed up on the beach of the shore nearby. The Deities were found and installed at four temples: Rama at Triprayar, Laksman at Moozhikulam, Bharata at Irinjalakuda, and Satrughna at Payammel. These temples are all close to Thrissur. It is supposed to be especially beneficial to worship at all four temples on the same day.

From Thrissur you can get a bus to Irinjalakuda from the Shakthan Thampuram bus stand. Irinjalakuda is 8km from the Irinjalakuda railway station on the Thrissur-Ernakulam line.
 To get to this place by train is inconvenient, as the railway station is 8km east of town.

Kaladi
Area Code: 04857

Adi Sankaracharya was born here on the bank of the Periyar River in 788 AD. Kaladi is 45km northeast of Kochi, 55km southeast of Trichur, and 271km north of Thiruvananthapuram.

Sankaracharya completed his studies of the Vedas at age sixteen. He is said to have diverted the course of the Poorna River one and a half km from his house so that his aged mother could take her daily bath in the river without walking too far. He left this world at age thirty-two after establishing important maths in Sringeri, Dwarka, Joshimath, and Puri.

The Sringeri Math (Mutt) has a small complex of temples. There are two shrines, one in memory of Sri Sankaracharya and Dakshinamurti, and the other dedicated to the goddess Sharada. The Sringeri Math is believed to be located at the place where Sankaracharya’s house was once located. The black pole to the left of the entrance is said to mark the exact place where Sankaracharya was born. Open 5:30 am to 12:30 pm and 3:30 to 8 pm.

There is a memorial marking the place where Sankaracharya’s mother, Aryamba, was cremated. Crocodile Ghat, the bathing ghat outside the temple, is said to be the place where Sankara was caught by a crocodile. He took the opportunity to ask his mother if he could take sannyas (the renounced order). When she said yes, the crocodile released him.

Next to the Sringeri Math is the ancient Sri Krishna Temple, Sankaracharya’s family temple. Open 5 to 8:30 am and 5 to 7:30 pm

The 45m, nine-storey, Sri Adi Sankara Keerthi Sthamba Mandapa has illustrations in it that tell the story of Sankara’s life. As you ascend the winding steps, you will see the framed relief paintings that narrate his story. There are several large statues of Ganapati and Adi Sankara. Open 7 am to 7 pm.

Located nearby is the Manicha-mangalam Temple, 1km north of Kaladi. Two km away is the Velli-manthulli Temple, dedicated to the goddess Durga.

Practicalities
There are guest houses and dharamshalas maintained by the Sringeri Math and Ramakrishna Advaita Ashram. There is also a Government Rest House and a few private lodges.

The nearest airport is in Kochi (48km). The closest railway stations are in Angamali (10km) and Alwaye (23km).

It takes about two hours to get from Trichur to Kaladi by bus. The temples are about two km from the bus stand.

Aranmula
Aranmula is located 9km from Chengannur on the bank of the Pampa River. There is the important Parthasarathi Temple here. This temple is considered to be one of the five most important Krishna temples in Kerala, and it is one of the 108 Divya Desam temples referred to by the Alwars as especially sacred to Vaishnavas. The Deity in the temple is Parthasarathi, a name for Lord Krishna denoting his pastime of driving Arjuna’s chariot during the Kurukshetra battle.

This place is known for the Aranmula Vallamkali (Utthrittathi) Festival, a boating event held on the last day of Onam (Aug-Sept). During this festival, snake boats are rowed for about two hours. The 31m (103 ft) long snake boats have 100 rowers and 25 singers singing Vanchipattu or boat songs. The festival commemorates Krishna’s crossing of the Yamuna River. Krishna is believed to be in all the boats simultaneously. It is not a competitive race, and all the boats arrive at the same time.
Aranmula is about 125 north of Thiruvananthapuram. There are hotels in Alappuzha (Alleppey).

Ambalapuzha
The temple here is considered to be one of the three main Krishna temples in Kerala. The Deity was installed in 1613. This temple is famous for its offerings of palpayasam, milk porridge of exceptional sweetness.

There is a ten-day festival in March-April, during which there are a number of dance performances. Ambalapuzha is located 76km south of Kochi. The nearest rail junction is Tiruvalla Rd. Accommodation is in Alappuzha.

Backwater Cruises
An area known as Kuttanda goes from Kochi in the north to Kollam in the south. This area has connecting waterways made up of rivers, lakes, and canals. Boat cruises pass tropical forests, green paddy fields, coconut groves, islands, and rural villages, and they give a view of rural life not possible to see from the roads. Kettu vallams, traditional Keralan boats pass by, either powered by sails or by a person with a pole. Poles sticking out from the water warn that the water is shallow at that place. Most people really enjoy their cruise.

There are several ways to travel: by tour boat, local ferry, customized kettu vallam, and speedboat. One of the most popular trips goes between Alappuzha and Kollam. Some visitors find the Alappuzha and Kollam trip a bit long. You can either go the entire trip or get off part way. You can then catch a bus back to where you began or bring your things with you and stay at your destination.

The District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC, government) and ATDC (private) both run cruises departing Alappuzha at 10:30 am and arriving in Kollam (Quilon) at 6:30 pm at a cost of Rs 200. You should arrive at either office before 10 am. The cruise makes several stops along the way. The ATDC cruise is supposed to stop (but doesn’t always) at an 11th century statue of a Buddha, a place to go swimming, a coir village, for lunch (a traditional Keralan meal on a banana leaf), and at the Mata Amritanandamayi Mission Ashram.

Cruises go daily between Alappuzha and Kollam except during the monsoon season (June to Aug). Between June and November the ATDC and DTPC run one boat daily on alternate days; no boat on Sun. During the monsoon season, cruises leave only when four or five people are interested in the trip.

The ATDC arranges shorter trips for Rs 150 per hour for a boat. They also rent out charter boats (Rs 750 a day, max twenty people). The ATDC rents out houseboats with bedrooms, a dining area, and a bathroom for Rs 3500 per day for two people. The DTPC rents houseboats for Rs 3000 per day or Rs 600 per hour.

You can also take one of the local ferries. They are slower and sometimes get very crowded. The Alappuzha to Kottayam ferry is a good trip. You should arrive early to get a seat at the front of the boat where you will have a good view. There are 10 ferries daily from Alappuzha to Kottayam (2½ hr, Rs 15, first at 5 am). From Kottayam to Alappuzha the first ferry starts at 6.30 am. There is one ferry every other day to Kochi (6 hr, noon) and one daily to Kumarakom (2½ hr, 3 pm).

Near Kottayam

Kumarakom
There is a bird sanctuary nearby, next to Vembanad Lake, 16km west of Kottayam. There are many local water birds, and birds migrate here including the Siberian stork, golden-backed woodpecker, and night heron. The best time to visit the park is between November and March. If you come at other times of the year you will most likely not see much. Open daily 10 am to 6 pm. The best time to be in the park is around dawn (you need special permission). This is a pleasant place.     

There are regular buses between Kottayam (½ hr) and Kumarakom.

Where to Stay
KTDC Kumarakom Tourist Village (0481 524-2558) has rooms in houseboats for Rs 1400 to Rs 2200. There are also four rooms with bath for Rs 500.
Coconut Lagoon Resort (Casino Group) (0481 524-491; Kochi 0484 668-221; fax 668-001), on the shore of Vembanad Lake, is built in a traditional Keralan style and contains pieces of old Keralan palaces and beautiful carvings. Rooms are $105/115 and luxury rooms are $115/125. It has a pool, is well-managed, and is a very pleasant place to stay. You have to get here by boat.
Taj Garden Retreat (0481 524-371; fax 0481 560-740; Kochi 668-377) has luxury rooms for $100/110. It is a very good place.

Aranmula
Aranmula, 12km from Changanassery, has an ancient temple dedicated to Shri Parthasarathi, which is a name for Krishna meaning “the chariot driver of Arjuna.” During the Onam festival (Aug/Sept) there is a Snakeboat Festival, which is part of the temple rituals, on the River Pampa.

The Vijana Kala Vedi Centre offers courses in Kathakali, Bharata Natyam dancing, Ayurvedic medicine, astrology, music, mural painting, Keralan cooking, Kalaripayat (Keralan martial art), woodcarving, and languages (Sanskrit, Hindi, Malayalam). Visitors are welcome to take whatever courses interest them and to stay as long as they like. Full board and lodging and two courses start at around $200 per week. The price goes down the longer you stay. For information contact: The Director Vijnana Kala Vedi Centre, Tarayil Makku Junction, Aranmula 689533, Kerala.

Kannady metal mirrors, produced by the “lost wax” method, are made here. Such mirrors sell for as much as Rs 100,000. You can get an inexpensive one for as little as Rs 300.

Ettumanur
The Siva temple here has excellent woodcarvings and 16th century murals depicting pastimes of Krishna and pastimes from the Ramayana. The murals are similar to the ones at Mattancherry Palace in Kochi. Ettumanur is 12km north of Kottayam. The form of the deity of Siva in this temple is “Vaddikasula Vada,” or “one who is difficult to please.” He is mainly in an angry mood. There is a 4m (13 ft) mural depicting Lord Siva doing his cosmic tandava dance.

The ten-day Arattu festival in Feb-March hosts many musical performances. On the eighth and tenth day of the festival, the priests bring out statues of elephants that weigh 100kg (210 lb) and are made of solid gold. These elephants were presented by Marthanda Varma, the Maharaja of Travancore, to the temple, in the 18th century. The inner sanctum is not open to non-Hindus, but anyone can view the paintings. There is a fee for those who wish to use a camera.

Munnar
Area Code: 04865

This small hill station (1524m, 5030 ft), 130km from Kochi, is surrounded by some of the nicest mountain scenery in South India. There are beautiful areas in which to walk. In whatever direction you walk from the town, there are good views. Few foreigners come here .
Information
Tourist Information Service (Joseph Lype) has a counter in the bazaar (531-136, near the bus stand, where he provides good information, a good map, and can help with accommodations, tours, etc. He is helpful.

DTPC Tourist Inforation Center (531516) run tours of the area for Rs 300. Hours: Daily 10 am to 5 pm.

You can change money at the State Bank of India.

The Tata General Hospital is a very good hospital.

Alpha Internet, next to Misha Tourist Home has Internet for Rs 35 per hour.

Eravikulam (Rajamalai) National Park 
At Eravikulam National Park (100 sq km), you can see the rare Nilgiri tahr (mountain goat). They have short horns, are brown, and the males have a thick mane. They are usually seen near the entrance. Other wildlife in the park are elephants, gaurs, sambars and the rarely seen tiger. There are great views in the park, but it is tough walking around.

T he entrance to the park is in Vaguvarai, 17km from Munnar. By auto-rickshaw it cost Rs 100 one way or Rs 200 roundtrip. Admission: Foreigners/Indians Rs 60/10

You can go to Anamudi (2695m), the highest mountain in South India.

Top Station
Top Station, 37km from Munnar on the Kerala and Tamil Nadu border, has great views of the Western Ghats. Regular buses go to Top Station (1 hr) from Munnar. A jeep costs Rs 400. The area is known for the Neelakurunji plant, which flowers only once every twelve years. The flower is violet.

Where to Stay and Eat
The Government Guest House (530-385) has really basic rooms for Rs 75.
Sree Narayana Tourist House (530-212; fax: 530312) is one of the best budget places. Rooms are Rs 600/650 and up. Recommended.
Hotel Poopada (530-223: Email: poopada@rediffmail.com) has rooms for Rs 650 to Rs 850. It has a good, economical restaurant. Usually full on weekends.
Hotel Hill View (530-567; fax 530-241), Kannan Devan Hills, has clean rooms with hot water and TV for Rs 800/900 to Rs 1100/1300. Some of the rooms have good views. It is well-managed, friendly, and recommended.
Royal Retreat (530-240; fax 530-440), Kannan Devan Hills, has large nice rooms for Rs 700/800. It is a good choice and has a very good restaurant.
East End (530-451 fax 530-227) has very clean cottages in a garden for Rs 1500/1600. It has a very good restaurant. Recommended.
The Royal Retreat, Hill View and East End all have good restaurants.
Woodlands, in the bazaar, has very good South Indian meals.

Travel
Munnar is 130km east of Kochi and 70km north of Periyar (4½ hr). There are buses to Kochi (4½ hr, 5 daily), Thiruvananthapuram (9 hr, 4 daily), Kumily (4½ hr, 1 daily), Kottayam (5 hr, 5 daily), Palani (5 hr) and Madurai (5 hr, 1 daily).

Near Munnar

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary
There are woodpeckers, Malabar gray hornbills, Ceylon frogmouths, parakeets, and rose-billed rollers. This sanctuary is located 20km from Kothamangalam on the road between Ernakulam and Munnar. There are basic and mid-range hotels in Kothamangalam and an Inspection Bungalow in Boothathankettu. You can take a boat cruise from Boothathankettu to Thattekkad. Admission Foreigners/Indian Rs 40/10

Hornbill Bungalow (0484 258-8302, has rooms for Rs 400 and dorm beds for Rs 80. This is basically the only place to stay next the Sanctuary.

Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary
This sanctuary, covering 285 sq km, is 48km south of Palakkad, bordering the Anamalai Wildlife Sanctuary in Tamil Nadu. In the park there are a few tigers and elephants, crocodiles, sloth bears, gaurs, bison, wild boar, chitals, and sambars. It is open all year, but during the monsoon, from June to August, it is not a good time to visit the park. From Thunakadavu, where the sanctuary headquarters is located, visitors can rent rowboats. There is also a boat cruise from Parambikulam.

There is an Inspection Bungalow (0425 367233) and a tree hut.

At Parambikulam there is a Tamil Nadu government Inspection Bungalow and a PWD Rest House. There is a watchtower in Zungam (5km from Thunakadavu) and one in Anappadi (8km from Thunakadavu).

The sanctuary is approached from Pollachi (40km from Coimbatore and 49km from Palakkadi). Four buses go daily between Pollachi and Parambikulam (2 hr).

Sabarimala
Area Code: 04739

The Ayyappan Temple is located at an elevation of 950m, deep in the forests of the Sahyadri mountain range and 190km north of Thiruvananthapuram. The people dressed in black that you see all over South India are performing austerities before visiting this temple. This temple is dedicated to Dharma Sasta as Ayyappa.

On Makara Vilakku day, over two million people visit this temple. The pilgrim season is from Nov to March. From mid-Nov to the end of December, the temple is opened for 41 days. The temple is open during mid-April, Prathistha day (May-June), and during the Onam festival (Aug-Sept).

Vallikkavu (Amrithapuri)
Located here, 10km north of Kollam on the backwater boat route, is the Ashram of Shri Amritanandamayi (4756 21279, also known as the “Hugging Mama” because she gives every person who attends her meetings a big loving hug. She sometimes spends hours hugging people. When Amritanandamayi is at the ashram there is usually a daily darshan starting at 11 am. There are special Devi Bhava darshans on Thursday and Sunday, which are well attended. Amritanandamayi is often away from the ashram from mid-May to Mid-August and in Nov.

Foreigners are welcome to stay at the ashram. Basic accommodations are available for a donation. There are dorms and some basic private rooms. The food is good. The usually way to get here is on a backwater boat going between Kollam and Alappuzha. You can also take a train or bus to Kayam Kulam and them a bus to Vallikkavu (10 km).

Area of Thiruvananthapuram

Adi Keshava Temple
This temple contains the Deity of Lord Keshava. This Maha-Vishnu Deity, lying on Sesa Naga, is 5.5m (18 ft) long and is viewed from three doors. The Adi Keshava Temple is about 45km southeast of Thiruvananthapuram in the town of Tiruvattar. Few people visit.

The Deity faces west instead of east. The Deity’s left hand faces down, while in most other Maha-Vishnu temples, the Deity’s right hand is down. The temple priest says that Maha-Vishnu is facing west because this Deity is looking at the Deity of Sri Padmanabhaswami in Thiruvananthapuram. It is a large, architecturally interesting temple. Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu found a copy of the Brahma-samhita at this temple. Darshan times are 5 to 8 am, 10 am to noon, and 5 to 8 pm.

Practicalities
This temple is in the town of Tiruvattar, about 45km southeast of Thiruvananthapuram. This is a small town with no overnight facilities.

From Thiruvananthapuram you get here by first taking a bus to the town of Marthandum (35km, 1½ hr, Rs 10). This town can be reached by getting a Nagercoil or Kanyakumari bus. From there you get another bus to Tiruvattar (10km, 20 min, Rs 3). You can also get a bus to here from Nagercoil. The temple is about a ten-minute walk from where the bus lets you off.

Parasuram Temple
Located about halfway between Thiruvananthapuram and Kovalam at the junction of two roads is one of the only Parasuram temples in India.

Padmanabhapuram Palace
A large town wall surrounds this beautiful palace, made of granite and teakwood. Most of the palace dates from the 17th or 18th centuries, but some parts of it are said to date back to the 14th century. The rulers of Travancore, a princely state for over 400 years, ruled from this palace from 1590 to 1790.

Travancore included a good part of present-day Kerala, as well as part of western Tamil Nadu.
The palace contains outstanding woodcarvings, excellent stone sculptures, and fantastic murals. The palace has floral patterns intricately carved on the ceilings and 18th century paintings in the puja (worship) room. These paintings are some of the best in India. If the worship room is closed, ask at the front desk for permission to enter. In Vishnu’s bedroom there are paintings of deities all over the walls. There is a lamp that has been lit continuously since the 18th century.

The palace is open daily except Mon 9 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 5; camera Rs 5; video Rs 500. It is compulsory to go on a tour with a guide (1 hr).

To take a good picture you need a flash, as many of the rooms are dark. The Museum across from the ticket office has beautiful wooden sculptures and displays copies of the murals in the palace.

The palace is 65km southeast of Thiruvananthapuram, just over the Tamil Nadu border, on the road to Kanyakumari. It can be visited on the way to or from Kanyakumari.
The Kanyakumari tour that departs from Thiruvananthapuram stops here before going on to Kanyakumari. Buses departing from the Thampanur station in Thiruvananthapuram on their way to Nagercoil or Kanyakumari stop here, as do the local buses from Kovalam to Kanyakumari.

Around Kovalam

Vizhinjam (Vilinjam)
Vizhinjam, 3km south of Kovalam, was once the capital of the Ay kingdom, one of the earliest known dynasties in Kerala. The Pandyans kings took over in the 9th century. Important battles were fought between the Cholas and Chers here in the 11th century. Now Vizhinjam is a simple village.

The Tali Siva Temple, in the middle of the village, across from the police station, is a small 8th century rock temple. It has a carved figure of Siva carrying a weapon. It also contains Naga snake statues.

In Kovil Kadu (Forest Temple), near the sea, about ten minutes from the center of the village, there is a small Siva shrine and a renovated shrine dedicated to Goddess Bhagavati. They are believed to date to the 9th century and are most likely the earliest structural temples in Kerala.
Pozhikkara Beach

This beach is located 3km north of Samudra, the north Kovalam beach. It is secluded. There is the peaceful Lagoona Beach Resort (480-049) in the village of Pachalloor, behind the beach, with four rooms that overlook the sea for Rs 3800 with meals. The guest house organizes interesting backwater trips with a good guide. It is best to book in advance.

Pulinkudi
Pulinkudi is 8km south of Kovalam.
Surya Samudra Beach Garden (480-413; fax 481-124) has traditional Keralan cottages, an excellent rock swimming pool, private beaches, and music and dance performances. It has a very good restaurant. Rooms during the high season start at Rs 4000/4500.

Somatheeram Ayurvedic Beach Resort (480-600; fax 463-702), on Somatheeram Beach, offers Ayurvedic medical retreats. During the high season, rooms go for Rs 1500 to Rs 3000.

Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary
This 53 sq km park is the home of elephants, leopards, sambars, lion-tailed macaques, and various birds. The best time to visit is between January and May. There are really good views of the surrounding countryside in the area of the park. The park is about 60km northeast of Thiruvananthapuram.

Accommodations are at the hill station of Ponmudi. The KTDC Ponmudi Guest House (0471 89230) has rooms, cottages, and a dorm. Meals must be ordered in advance.

Four buses go from Thiruvananthapuram to Ponmudi daily, the first at 5.30 am and the last at 3.30 pm.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides