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Pop: 18,000
Phone Code: 07686
There are many ancient temples here, built by the Chandela kings between
950-1050 AD. The Chandela were a dynasty that ruled this part of India
for five centuries before finally being defeated by the Mughals. Only
about twenty-five of the original eighty-five temples still exist. About
ten percent of the elaborate carvings on the temples are erotic, which
is one of the reasons for their fame. This is one of the most popular
places in India with foreign tourists, even though it is in the middle
of nowhere.
The temples are divided into three main groups: west, east, and south.
The western group, especially the Laksman Temple and the Kandariya Mahadeva
Temple, is the most interesting.
The Khajuraho Dance Festival is held every year in
Feb-March for ten days. Celebrated dancers from all over India come
to pay tribute to the gods and goddesses enshrined in these temples.
Most people stay just one or two days. You can see all the temples
in about five or six hours. It can be extremely hot during the summer,
with temperatures rising to 42ºC (108ºC), and quite cold in
the winter (4ºC, 39ºF).
Information
The village of Khajuraho is near the western group of temples and contains
hotels, restaurants, and shops. The Government of India Tourist
Office (272347; Email: goito@sancharnet.in) is located here.
There are also tourist offices at the bus stand and airport. These offices
can help you book hotels during the busy season. The old village of
Khajuraho is about 1km east of the bus stand.
You can hire an official guide at the tourist office
or at Raja’s Café (where they hang out).
Guides charge Rs 200 for half a day and Rs 300 for a full day for up
to four people. The guides speak various languages and charge Rs 100
extra for this service. MP Tourism offers a good walkman tour of the
western temples for Rs 50.
There is a good Archaeological Survey of India book
about the temple of Khajuraho written by Krishna Deva (Rs 5).
Shilpgram has a nightly cultural program starting
at 7 pm (Rs 50). Kandariya Art & Culture does a similar type cultural
program starting at 6.30 pm (Rs 150). The performances include folk
dancing.
Money
You can change money at the State Bank of India (open
until 6 pm on Friday and 4 pm on Saturday), the Canara Bank
(also gives advances on Visa & MasterCard), and the Khajuraho
Ashok.
Western Group
This is the main group of temples and should be seen first if your time
is limited. These temples are some of the most interesting in India.
There are free, guided tours at 9 am and 2.30 pm daily except Fri and
holidays. Most of the temples are built on high platforms and have tall
sikharas (towers). Under the tower is the garbha-griha, the altar for
the main deity or linga. In front of the altar is the mandapa (hall),
where the devotees worship. There is usually an ardha mandapa (a porch)
between the doorway and the mandapa. Admission Foreigners/Indians US$5/Rs
20
Laksman Temple (950) is the best preserved of the
temples. It is built on a high platform, which has sculptures of elephants,
horses, musician, women, and dancers on it. The doorway of the sanctum
has a panel of incarnations of Lord Vishnu. There is also a panel of
the nine planets and on the walls, carvings of Krishna. The pancha-ratha
sanctum has a three-headed, four-armed form of Lord Vishnu surrounded
by his ten incarnations and fourteen other forms of Vishnu. On the south
wall of the temple is an excellent carving of Ganesh.
Varaha Temple (10th century) is dedicated to Lord
Vishnu in his boar incarnation. Varaha saved the earth by rescuing it
from the bottom of the Causal Ocean and by killing the demon, Hiranyaksha.
There is a large sculpture of Varaha—2.6m (8½ ft)—on
the altar, with hundreds of other figures carved on it. Varaha is on
top of Sheshanaga. Next to the Varaha Temple is the small Lakshmi
Temple.
Kandariya Mahadeva Temple (1025-1050) is dedicated
to Lord Siva. It is the tallest temple, soaring to 31m (95 ft), and
is also the most developed architecturally. The temple contains a marble
Siva-linga in the inner sanctum. Beside the main sikhara (tower), there
are eighty-four smaller, subsidiary towers, all replicas of the main
tower. There are almost 900 sculptures on the temple platform.
Jagadambi Temple (early 11th century) has a standing
Parvati deity in the sanctum, although the temple was originally dedicated
to Vishnu. There are several beautiful carvings of Lord Vishnu on this
temple.
Chitragupta Temple (early 11th century) is dedicated
to Surya, the sun-god. Inside the inner chamber there is a 1½
m (5 ft) image of Surya riding a chariot drawn by seven horses. There
is a carving of Vishnu with ten heads symbolizing all ten main incarnations.
Vishvanantha Temple (1002) is dedicated to Lord Siva.
It has a Nandi Pavilion with a 2.2m (7 ft) high sandstone Nandi bull
(Siva’s carrier).
Matangesvara Temple, next to the Laksman temple, outside
the main enclosure, is dedicated to Lord Siva and contains a 2.5m high
Siva-linga. There is active worship in this temple.
Chausat Yogini Temple (900) is dedicated to goddess
Kali and is said to be the oldest of the temples. It is located outside
the main group of temples, past the tank.
Jain Temples
There are three Jain temples within an enclosure wall about 1½
km southeast of the western group. The Parsvanath Temple (mid-10th
century) is the largest. There are many beautiful Vaishnava deities
carved on the walls. The temple was originally dedicated to Adinath,
but the image of Parsvanath was placed in the sanctum in 1860.
There are two famous sculptures on this temple, one of a woman putting
on eye makeup, and another of a woman taking a thorn out of her foot.
There is a sculpture of Kama (Cupid) with his quiver of arrows and his
consort, Rati.
Only the sanctum of the Adinath Temple (late 11th
century) is original. The porch is modern. The Santinath Temple, with
a 4.5m statue of Adinath, is the main place of worship. The temple has
been renovated, but there is an inscription on one of the walls dated
1027.
Eastern Group
There are several temples one km east of the western group, just north
of the Jain temples. There are detailed carvings on the ruined Ghantai
Temple (late 10th century). The Javari Temple
(late 10th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The Vamana
Temple (late 11th century), 200m north of the Javari Temple,
is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his dwarf incarnation. The Brahma
Temple (early 10th century) has a sandstone sikhara on a granite
structure.
Southern Group
The Chaturbhuja Temple (around 1100), 2km southeast
of the village, has an excellent sanctum containing a 2.7m four-armed
Dakshina-murti image of Lord Siva.
The Duladeo Temple (early 12th century), 5km southeast
of the village, was the last Chandela temple built in Khajuraho. It
has an outstanding deity 2.7m (9 ft) tall of Lord Vishnu in its inner
sanctum.
Archaeological Museum
This interesting museum has a good collection of deities and sculptures
from the area. There is a Vaishnava Gallery that includes a beautiful
Bhu Varaha sculpture. Open 9 am to 5 pm. It takes about twenty minutes
to see everything. Admission Rs 5
The museum gives visitors an opportunity to see the temple sculptures
at eye level. The original temple artists made adjustments to the figures
to compensate for the angle and distance from which the viewer would
see the sculptures on the temples themselves. Therefore the sculptures
may look slightly out of proportion as they are seen in the museum.
Where to Stay—Lower
Yogi Lodge (274158) is a good-valued, clean, budget
place built around a courtyard. Rooms are Rs 150/250 and Rs 350 with
air-cooling. During the slow hot season, this place may be the only
budget hotel with any people in it. Recommended.
Yadav Lodge is a good place with rooms for Rs 100/130.
Hotel Plaza (44373), Jain Temple Rd, near the Hanuman
temple, has rooms with bath for Rs 100.
Jain Lodge (272352) is a good place with a vegetarian
restaurant. It has a selection of rooms that start at Rs 200/250 (Rs
300 with air-cooling). Popular with travelers.
Hotel Harmony (244135) is a nice place with large clean
rooms for Rs 300/400. The rooms facing the garden are best. It has a
vegetarian restaurant.
Next door, the Hotel Surya (274145) is a good, clean
place with a small garden. Rooms with bath are Rs 250/225, Rs 350 with
an air-cooler, and Rs 500 with A/C. It is a good value.
Hotel Lakeside (274120), Main Rd, has good clean rooms
for Rs 200/250, rooms with bath for Rs 300/500, and dorm beds for Rs
50. The rooms are located around the courtyard.
Tourist Village (274128) is well located in a quiet
place. It has rooms with bath for Rs 350 (Rs 50 extra with air-cooling).
Rakshan Guest House, a little east of the village has
big, clean rooms for Rs 200/250. Friendly.
Sunset View (44077) is a good, clean place with a garden.
It is in a good location near the lake. It has a wide selection of rooms
ranging from Rs 125 to Rs 300. It is a decent value.
Hotel Casa Di William (274244), Prem Sagar Lake Rd,
has clean rooms with hot water and air-cooling for Rs 450/650. It has
a good view of the Western temples.
Where to Stay—Middle
MP Tourism’s Hotel Jhankar (274063; fax: 274194)
has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 500/600 and Rs
850/950 with A/C. It is the best of the government run places.
The popular MP Tourist Bungalow has a good location.
Rooms with bath are Rs 400/450.
Hotel Payal (274064) is a nice, clean place with good-sized,
well-maintained rooms for Rs 525/575 and Rs 825/950 with A/C. It has
a garden and is in a quiet location. For the price, it is recommended.
Hotel Marble Palace (271606) has comfortable rooms
with a bathtub and hot water for Rs 600/700 with air-cooling and Rs
800/900 with A/C. Recommended.
Where to Stay—High
Taj Chandela (272355, fax 272366), Jhansi Rd, is the
best hotel in town. The rooms are $80/90. It has a pool, health club,
tennis court, massages (Rs 200), chandeliers, and bathtubs in the attached
bathrooms. It has a good bookshop, a pleasant garden, and two good restaurants.
Non-guests can use the pool for Rs 175.
Hotel Jass Trident (272344; fax 272345: Email: d_bhatial@indiatimes.com),
Bypass Rd, is a deluxe place with a pool, tennis court, a garden, and
first-class service. Rooms are $50/85. Non-guests can use the pool for
Rs 175. They have nightly entertainment (open to non-guests). There
are folk dances from September to April, and sitar and tabla music.
Recommended.
ITDC Khajuraho Ashok (44024; fax 44361) is a luxury
place with a nice pool (Rs 100 for non-guest). Some rooms have a view
of the temples. Rooms go for Rs 1650/2200. Not a good value.
Holiday Inn (272301; fax 272304; Email; hikhajuraho@vsnl.com),
Jhansi Rdis a new, well-managed place with comfortable rooms for $55/100,
a bookshop, and a pool (Rs 150 for non-guest). It is a good place.
Hotel Usha Bundela (272386; fax 272385; Web Site: http://www.ushashriramhotels.com),
Jhansi Rd, is a first-class place with rooms for $55/95. It has a large
pool that can be used by non-guest. It is a good value and offers discounts
during the off-season.
Where to Eat
Jain Lodge has a good vegetarian restaurant. Closed
April to June. Hotel Harmony has a vegetarian restaurant.
New Bharat, downstairs from the Raya Hotel, has good
vegetarian food.
Jata Shankar, by the Western temple group, has decent,
inexpensive thalis for Rs 20.
Mediterraneo Restaurant, Jain Temple Rd, has good Italian
food, including pizza and pasta. Part Italian owned.
Temple View, next to the tourist office, is a friendly
place with good food.
Raja’s Café, just across from the temple,
is managed by two Swiss women (they speak with British accents) whose
family has been in India since Independence. It is a popular place with
a good view of the temples from the rooftop terrace. The sisters are
friendly, helpful, informative, and interesting. They serve Western
and Indian food. The government tour guides work from here.
Jass Oberoi (2085) is a high-class place with very
good Indian, Chinese, and Continental food
.
The best hotels all have good restaurants. Expect to pay at least Rs
200 per person.
Local Travel
Bicycle rickshaws are expensive because
many tourists pay Rs 30 for a ride that should cost Rs 5.
A taxi can be hired at MP Tourism,
Khajuraho Tours, or Tour-Aids, near
the Clark Hotel.
The eastern and southern temples are a good walk from the hotel area.
To hire a bicycle rickshaw for half a day should cost about Rs 100 (Rs
50 or less during the off-season).
A good way to get around is by bike (Rs 30 per day).
Travel
Air There are daily flights
to Delhi (1½ hr, $130) via Agra. There is a daily flight to Varanasi
($1200) continuing on to Kathmandu. There are daily flights to Mumbai
and Calcutta. Flying is the best way to get to Khajuraho; as there is
no nearby railway station.
The Indian Airlines office (244035) is next to the
Hotel Usha Bundela on Airport Rd. You can also book flights at the airport.
A taxi to the airport (5km south) costs about Rs 150. There is an airport
bus. An auto-rickshaw costs about Rs 70.
Rail
The closest stations are Jhansi (176km), if you are taking a train
from Agra or Delhi; Satna (117km), if you are coming from Allahabad,
Varanasi, Calcutta, or Mumbai; and Mahoba (51km), if you are coming
from Varanasi. If you are going to Varanasi, it is usually better to
take a train from Satna, because from Mahoba there are only a few slow
trains daily with a small quota.
From Delhi, the Shatabdi Express is the best train to Jhansi. It departs
Delhi at 6.15 am, arrives in Agra at 8.10 am, and arrives in Jhansi
at 10.40 am. The Shatabdi Express departs Jhansi at 6 pm to Delhi (4½
hr). During the day there are also other, much slower trains between
Jhansi and Delhi.
There is no direct train connection to Varanasi. The closest train
stations to Khajuraho are Satna (117km east) or Mahoba (51km). From
Satna, travelers can take an express bus (4 hr) or taxi to Khajuraho.
From Satna, there are trains to Mumbai, Gorakhpur, Calcutta, and
Varanasi. To get to Khajuraho from Jaipur, you change trains at Agra
and take another train to Jhansi.
Bus
There is a direct bus from Agra (12 hr) and about six buses daily
from Jhansi (6 hr). A luxury A/C bus to Jhansi departs from Khajuraho
at noon to meet the Shatabdi Express going to Agra and Delhi (Rs 200).
There are other less expensive and slower buses to Jhansi during the
day. There are only uncomfortable local buses for the 10-12 hr trip
to Varanasi or Allahabad. There is a 7 am bus to Jabalpur (11 hr). The
best way to get to Jabalpur is to go to Satna and get a train for there.
During the off-season, buses to Jhansi are often canceled or delayed
(late by two hours or more). You can take an auto-rickshaw to the main
road and catch a bus from there.
Taxi A taxi from Jhansi to Khajuraho costs about Rs
1500 and takes about four hours. A taxi to Varanasi (9 hr) costs about
Rs 5000.
Near Khajuraho
Panna National Park
This park, 32km from Khajuraho on the road to Satna, is home to tigers
(rarely seen), nilgais (blue bulls), and deer. There are also waterfalls
in the area. The Pandava Falls Lake, 10km east of Madla, is a peaceful
place to visit. It is possible to see wildlife near the lake. It is
best to visit the park during fall and winter because the summer months
are extremely hot. On the way to the Park from Khajuraho, you pass the
Rajgarh Palace, which has a good view from its walls. It is now being
converted into a luxury hotel.
Admission: Foreigners/Indians Rs 150/15. Camera/video Rs 25/250
Giles’ Tree House, near the village of Madla,
25km southeast of Khajuraho, is managed by a member of the same family
that manages Raja’s Café in Khajuraho. It is located in
peaceful location next to a river. There are a few rooms here for Rs
600 to Rs 900. It is usually used by overlanders who camp out. It is
a pleasant place.
Ken River Lodge, (07732 275235), 27km from Khajuraho,
has comfortable, modern cottages and spacious tents with bath and hot
water for Rs 1700. They can arrange a safari to the park. Book it with
Ken River Lodge, c/o Pro Host (011 689-3027; fax 689-3027),
456 Vasant Kunj, New Delhi 110070.
You have to visit the park with your own vehicle, as there is no public
transportation. From Khajuraho a taxi is around Rs 1,200 for the day.
Ajaigarh and Kalinjar Forts
Located in Ajaigarh, 80km from Khajuraho, is this
hilltop fort. The Kalinjar Fort was built during the
Gupta period.
Dhubela
There is a small museum in the fort in Dhubela, 65km from Khajuraho,
containing sculptures, weapons, and items belonging to the Bundela kings. |
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