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Omkareswar
is on Mandhata Island, which is 2km long and 1km wide, at the confluence
of the Narmada and Kaveri Rivers. Seen from the air, the island resembles
the sacred OM symbol.
It is 77km south of Indore. On the island itself all the temples are
dedicated to Siva. On the north side of the Narmada there are a few
ruined temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu and also some Jain temples.
There is a temple dedicated to Varaha with twenty-four figures of Vishnu
carved in green stone. There is also a 5.5m (18 ft) long female figure
of Chamundi with ten arms holding clubs and skulls.
The
island is reached by crossing a concrete footbridge or by taking a boat
across the river. There is a major festival here during Siva-ratri (Feb-March)
and another during Karttika Purnima (Oct-Nov).
Omkareswar
Mandhata Temple
One of the twelve important Siva Jyotirlingas is located in this temple.
The sculptures on this important Siva temple are extremely detailed.
The main reason pilgrims come to Omkareswar is to visit this temple.
Around the Island
There is a traditional parikrama (circular tour) of the island beginning
at the ghats below the Sri Mandhata Temple and going
clockwise around the island. It takes at least two hours to complete.
The walk is nice for the first half-hour until you reach Triveni Sangam
(confluence of three rivers), where the Narmada and Kaveri meet.
From
there, the path climbs along the north shore until you reach the Gauri-Somnath
Temple, which is surrounded by numerous sculptures. There is
a huge Nandi carved of green stone in front of the temple and a large
Siva-linga in the temple.
From
there you either go down a flight of stairs to the village or head east
to the fortified town, that was ransacked by the Muslims.
After
climbing the side of a small ravine, you come to the Surajkund
Gate, flanked by 3m (10 ft) tall statues of Arjuna and Bhima,
the two Pandava brothers. Five minutes from there you come to the 10th
century Siddhnath Temple, the oldest temple on the
island. It has elaborate carvings. There is a 1.5m elephant carved on
a stone slab outside.
From
here there are two routes back to the village. One takes you along the
top of the plateau past a ruined temple and the Maharaja’s palace.
The other way takes you down a flight of steps to the riverbanks and
the main ghats.
Practicalities
Yatraki Niwas, behind the bus stand, has basic rooms
with bath for Rs 250/350.
Shiv
Niwas, by the steps leading to the ghats, has basic rooms.
Hotel
Aishwarya (07280 271325) has clean rooms with bath and hot
water for Rs 350/400 and Rs 500/550 with an air-cooler. It is new and
the best place in town by far.
There
are mainly only dharamsalas to stay at here. Most of
the dharamsalas have windowless rooms with simple washing facilities.
The cleanest places are the Ahilya Bhai and Rewa
Gauza.
You
can purchase mineral water at Jain Cold Drinks, 100m
from the bus stand. There are a few basic restaurants.
There
is no place to change money (the nearest place to do so is in Indore).
The post office on the main street has a poste restante service.
Travel
Omkareswar Road, on the Ratlam-Indore-Khandwa line, is the closest railway
station. It is 12km from Omkareswar. Only slow passenger trains stop
there.
There
are local buses to Ujjain and Indore (70km, 2½ hr). There is
a tour that comes here from Indore, which is a convenient way to visit.
If you know of
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